Touring Hokkaido by road bike is not so much about getting to the destination as quickly as you can but rather enjoying the journey along the way.
So there’s something special about taking time out and cruising through a week-long road cycling tour. Such is the Tour du Nord.
The Tour du Nord (nord meaning north in French) has been organised by local Canadian cycling enthusiast Paul Butkovich each year since 2013. Participants meander along unique routes through Hokkaido’s vast network of quiet country roads, sampling the sights and sounds of summer and staying in traditional accommodation along the way. In previous years tours have passed through central and northern Hokkaido. This year it headed down to the southern tip of Hokkaido, starting and finishing in Hirafu.
The tour first travelled west towards the Sea of Japan past the coastal fishing town of Suttsu which originally developed during the heyday of the booming Japanese herring trade. Since the demise of the herring fishery in the 1990s the town has moved towards aquaculture. After a delicious lunch of fresh oysters we made our way down to Shimamaki, the name of which is derived from the Ainu word “shuma ko mak”, meaning “behind rocks”. The pattern of the trip was established quickly; morning ride, lunch, ride to the final destination, have an onsen (hot spring bath), then eat a delicious dinner.
On day two the group cycled to the town of Setana and in the early afternoon took the ferry out to Okushiri Island which lies about 30km off the coast. The ferry took around 1.5 hours and after arriving we rode in brilliant sunshine along the pristine coastline to the other side of the island to our accommodation. Okushiri was a beautiful experience with quiet roads and spectacular scenery. Apart from its delicious uni (sea urchins), Okushiri boasts sheep pastures and beech forests. In 1993 a 7.8 magnitude earthquake devastated the island and the subsequent tsunami and landslides took the lives of around 230 people.
The next morning we started early (5.30am!) to ride to the ferry for the crossing back to the mainland and the transfer further south to the charming port town of Esashi. One of the oldest towns in Hokkaido, Esashi’s name derives from the Ainu word for a type of edible kelp, called kombu, a basic in Japanese cuisine including in dashi stock. The town is also the birthplace of a traditional folk music known as Esashi oiwake.
From Esashi we headed inland to historic Hakodate city, the port where Japan first opened up to foreign trade as a condition of the signing of the Convention of Kanagawa negotiated by American Commander Perry in 1854. As a result, Hakodate has a truly international flavour with many original Western-style buildings from early consulates which are a feature of the city.
From Hakodate the group pedalled out on one of the biggest rides of the trip, along the coast all the way to Onuma, in the Nanae region, taking in around 130km on the saddle. Along the way we found time to take a break and a midday natural onsen bath at Esandoritsu National Park. Mt Esan dominates the region. It’s an active volcano creating a hot spring right on the coast where you can soak in warm earth-fed waters and then roll out straight into the bracing ocean to cool down.
Back in the saddle to Onuma we were spurred on by the thought of a glass of cold Onuma beer, the town’s eponymous brew. Onuma rice cakes are also a sought-after item on the tourist’s shopping list. The Nanae region is famous for its own interpretation of the cream puff, Nanamitsuki apples and king mushrooms.
From the Nanae region, we tackled another big ride back to the Setana area in tough, rainy weather – luckily with the wind at our backs. Setana faces the Sea of Japan with the Shiribeshi-Toshibetsu River running through. The town is known for having the sole off-shore wind farm in Japan but with only two turbines so far there’s still room for industry expansion.
From Setana the route crossed back over the neck of the island to Lake Toya and then the final day from Lake Toya back to Niseko. In 2008, picturesque Toya’s Windsor Hotel was the setting for the 34th G8 Summit meeting of leaders of the world’s eight richest industrialised nations. Given the food riches available from the local region it was a perfect occasion to showcase Hokkaido’s produce and its culinary prowess.
The Tour du Nord is suited to biking enthusiasts who like to have fun and smell the roses – or the local floral versions – rather than trying to beat the timekeeper’s watch. Riders are of mixed abilities and levels of fitness and are not averse to breaking from the pack to cover the route at their own pace. However, members always look out for each other and meet at designated points for breaks and group meals. The support van is always a welcome sight carrying the extra luggage, spare parts and a helping hand.
The Tour du Nord is a deeply satisfying and rewarding experience: there’s nothing like taking time out and peddling through beautiful Hokkaido for a week with a group of riders who inevitably quickly become friends.
If you’re interested in cycling through Central Hokkaido on the 2016 Tour du Nord from 3-10 September, email Paul and the team at Rhythm Cycles on [email protected].