Adding a further twist to Hirafu’s multicultural dining scene is IKI Niseko, a Japanese-influenced fusion cuisine restaurant headed by long-time local Dutch chef Dennis van den Brink.
The restaurant is a showcase of what is possible with food that is abundant in Hokkaido – local produce, local livestock, local game and local seafood. These ingredients are brought together in a fusion of European and Asian styles, from rustic stews and pasta to teppanyaki and charcoal grilled fish.
Located on the ground floor of the recently built Shiki building, the restaurant has a relaxed, upmarket atmosphere. There is also bar-style seating right in front of the teppan (steel barbecue plate) to let you really appreciate the craftsmanship of chefs that are working here, as well as intoxicate you with the aromas of the cooking meat. In addition to the teppan, IKI have an irori (charcoal hearth) for truly unique Hokkaido style roasted fish.
We selected four plates for dinner that were popular and representative of IKI’s style. First to arrive was immaculately presented Yellowtail Carpaccio. In no time at all, half of the plate had disappeared. The subtle balsamic and sudachi (Japanese citrus) dressing gave it just a little extra oomph while still allowing the tenderness and subtlety of the fish to shine.
This was followed by the equally stunning Spider Roll – tempura soft shell crab sushi, with tobiko caviar. Sushi is quite a simple food in theory, but it’s amazing the difference that a skilled chef can bring to the equation. Every bite was a pleasure.
The first of the mains to arrive was the Hokkaido Venison Stew. Deer might not sound like a very Hokkaido meal, but wild deer are abundant here. The venison was so soft it was possible to eat it with chopsticks – the fibres of meat literally fell apart inside my mouth. The stew was rich, and the local garnishes were unique and delightful, from the beetroot, to the maitake mushroom and local roots.
As the last mouthful of the venison stew was about to be consumed, the impressive Australian Lamb Rack came out. The lamb is firstly seared on the teppan, crumbed and marinaded and finally roasted to juicy perfection, incredibly tender and succulent. The marinade was subtle and took a back seat, letting the lamb have the spotlight. Like the Hokkaido Venison Stew, the garnish was also unique and incredibly varied, from the perfectly cooked Brussels sprout, to the tart Japanese citrus and the smooth fried goat’s cheese. This was certainly the highlight meal of the evening and the temptation was there to lick the plate clean to make sure not a single scrap of flavour was left behind.
After the meal, a little time was spent relaxing at the bar that is integrated into the restaurant. A nice way to end a lovely Hokkaido dining experience in Hirafu.