There’s often a direct relationship between chef and farmer in Niseko that adds a special significance and quality to the dining experiences on offer here.
When long-time local chef Tess Stomski decided to dig a little deeper and learn more about these connections, she uncovered an incredible world of stories surrounding the lives of local farmers and what goes on behind the scenes of Niseko’s now-famous food industry.
In this world a young “natural-cultivation” farmer massages and sings to his tomatoes; an older farmer extracts extra flavour and sweetness from his carrots by storing them under the snow in winter; and a rice farmer introduces ducklings to his paddies in spring to organically control insects, before selling them as ducks to high-end restaurants in autumn.
“There’s the older original farmers who go by more conventional farming methods, then there’s a younger generation who have moved here and are trying all sorts of modern techniques,” Tess says. “They’re all young and intelligent, they’ve studied in America and have travelled. Several actually have degrees in engineering but they’ve decided what they want to do is live a simple farming lifestyle in the countryside in Niseko.
“An older guy Omichi-san grew up here and he talks about how there were no cars back then. In winter they didn’t clear snow from the roads so everyone travelled everywhere on skis. All of them are so different but the one thing in common is that they just love this area and they’re so proud to be part of the community here.”
These stories and many more form the foundation of Tess’s four-year labour of love – exquisite new recipe book Harvest Niseko. The book’s 100 recipes have been created in collaboration with Chisato Amagai, another local chef and colleague at Tess’s catering company Niseko Gourmet. Dishes are easy-to-cook modern Japanese, with some taking inspiration from French, Italian or Asian cuisine but incorporating local ingredients. “If you set yourself up with our suggested pantry it’s very easy to go out to your local supermarket wherever you live and cook up an authentic Niseko-inspired Japanese meal.”
HARVEST NISEKO
JPY 5,400
Available at most major accommodation providers, tourism outlets, gift shops, Explore Niseko, Lucky Supermarket and other fine local retailers.
Kinpira Gobo
Kinpira means to sauté or simmer, and Niseko’s sweet, earthy gobo (burdock root) cooked in this fashion goes beautifully alongside grilled meat or other dishes served with rice.
Radish, Mushroom and Bacon Salad
You and your guests will love the combination of flavours in this modern daikon (radish) salad. Shimeji or eringi mushrooms are best, and the suggested dressing is perfect.
Cod with Asparagus and Cream Sauce
This dish is perfect for an early evening meal in spring. Children love the creamy sauce and for adults, white wine is a great match.
Okonomiyaki
Okonomiyaki means “anything you like, fried”, referring to the ingredients you can mix with the batter. Perfect for an easy weeknight, family meal or party.
Braised Daikon Radish with Miso Sauce
Chisato’s super juicy braised daikon is Tess’s favourite dish on Niseko Gourmet’s traditional Japanese dinner menu. The salty miso sauce and yuzu are the perfect complement.