Kazuhiko Kojima grew up in Niigata, another snow-bound area on the west coast of Japan’s mainland island of Honshu.
Now head chef at Hokkaido French favourite BISTROT le cochon, his mother taught him to cook when he was growing up. After finishing school, however, he trained as a car mechanic, before deciding to follow his true passion. He worked at many restaurants and hotels in Tokyo before committing to mastering Gallic cuisine.
He packed his bags and headed for France, knocking on hundreds of doors asking to apprentice under a true French chef. Eventually the young Japanese man was invited to work at a traditional bistro under an old lady in Lyon.
In 2008, he moved to Kutchan and started a restaurant in a non-descript hole in the wall opposite the train station. Within weeks, curious local foodies had discovered it and BISTROT le cochon became one of Niseko’s must-try dining experiences. Last year Kazu teamed up with a couple of well-known local restaurateurs and reopened under the same name in a new location in Hirafu, in order to bring his unique brand of “grandmother’s French” to the visitors of Hirafu.
The restaurant’s atmosphere is warm and welcoming and suits intimate meals or quiet gatherings. The meal starts with a choice of wine, with a pinot noir recommended. We ordered our entrées and were alerted to a plump quenelle of truffle oil-infused butter in the middle of the table, which soon melted into the pores of Kazu’s house-made bread. A warm leek potage served in a small mug was a welcome surprise.
Our entrees soon arrived. Tasmanian Salmon Confit with Hokkaido Seaweed Sauce; and Hokkaido Mugibuta Pork Rillette, made with wheat-fed pork from nearby Makkari. Both were presented with a healthy serving of salad, lightly flavoured by a subtle balsamic vinaigrette. A carotte râpées and single sultana added a sweet flavour injection.
Our main courses arrived, striking and bold first in appearance, and second in flavour. Braised Tokachi Beef Cheeks in Red Wine Sauce rose from a potato puree and vegetables. The beef fell apart with a push of a knife, and delicately worked its way to the back of the palette. After enjoying this rich red meat, and swilling some wine, the creamy potato puree offered a contrasting flavour sensation. After the second mouthful we noticed some familiarity with the return of a subtle hint of truffle.
The other dish was a huge leg of French Duck Confit with Whole-Grain Mustard. Under a crispy skin, juicy, tender, dark meat fell off the bone. I turned my attention to a wilted, boiled snow pea lying across the potato puree. Then thick sticks of purple and white daikon radish, and small pieces of broccoli, cauliflower and carrot. In all you could taste the earthiness of the rich Hokkaido produce.
Desserts were a Warm Gâteau au Chocolat with Framboise Sorbet, and Crème Brûlée with Orange Flower Honey Ice Cream. Served in a shallow dish, the coating cracked with the touch of a spoon. The brûlée had hints of vanilla bean, fused with the accompanying caramel ice cream quenelle, reminding us once again of that truffle butter that began the evening’s journey.