Every now and then I like to pretend I’m not a ski bum.
I brush the icy tangles out of my hair, put on a jacket that doesn’t have a powder skirt, and go somewhere other than a ramen joint for dinner.
Bistro Kutchan Sakaba has got my back when it comes to this ruse. With a warm interior, an utterly delightful menu, and a price tag that even a snow bum like myself can afford, Sakaba would have to be one of my new favourites.
The bistro opened last season without much noise, but word soon spread that Niseko’s only Michelin-starred chef Yuichi Kamimura had spread his wings and opened an unassuming little tapas-style bistro in Kutchan, the nondescript little “CBD” of this little skiing/farming community. As you step in off the cold, wind-blown main street it’s like stepping into another world. Wine boxes have been used as panels along the back wall, another wall is covered in hundred of wine bottle corks, and gnarled timber tabletops complete an understated elegance.
My meal started with the foie gras pâté. I have to admit that I saw this in the teaser menu a few weeks before visiting. As soon as that first taste settled on my tongue I honestly considered sending back everything else I had ordered and asking for five more.
Next we were served onion butter bread and mushroom confit in pancetta sauce, scrumptious mouthfuls that were oozing with Hokkaido farm freshness, and made me feel a little less petulant about not ordering more pâté.
The tapas style menu is ideal for a grazer like me, but heavier dishes are also available for those who like one substantial plate. With this in mind, I ordered the risotto of the day, a chicken confit that smelled so invitingly aromatic that I forgot to take a picture before I dived in.
I was the night’s designated driver and so was unable to select from the extensive drinks list, but I was impressed by the international variety, which includes vino from Chile, USA, Italy and France, as well as a representation of local Japanese wines.
Driving didn’t stop me from ordering dessert, and we sampled a homemade chocolate terrine, and a semifreddo – a decadent creation of ice cream and cream, with crunchy toffee pieces throughout.
The exquisitely delicious menu should really come as no surprise, as Head Chef Tsuyoshi Kawaguchi worked along side Kamimura-san in Niseko for five years. However, the ambience and warmth of this delightful restaurant is attributable to Chef Yoshi and his lovely wife Izumi who was a most charming and efficient host.
I highly recommend you step out to Kutchan to sample the sophisticated yet welcoming Sakaba. The menu will have your taste buds jumping with delight, and the atmosphere will leave you feeling warm and refined – an unusual but pleasant experience for a ski bum like me.