Drive a scenic 15 minutes from Annupuri and you will find Goshiki, a traditional Japanese ryokan, or inn, that is home to deliciously authentic hot spring.
Upon first arriving you will probably be delighted by your charming tatami room until you start wondering where your bed is. Fear not, your futon is neatly packed away behind sliding paper doors and can be set up in a matter of minutes, although the solid bean pillow is not usually to Western taste. Including my own.
Head down to the male or female onsen and remove every stitch of clothing. Any kind of fabric in the onsen is a big no-no, as it upsets the natural balance of the mineral water and also upsets any Japanese people who might be soaking along with you. Be sure to clean and rinse thoroughly before slipping in to the bath, then enjoy the feeling of the piping hot water soothing your very soul. This might sound like a bit of an exaggeration, but try it after a long day on the hill and tell me if I’m wrong.
A stay at a ryokan with an onsen traditionally involves three soaking sessions: one before dinner, one after dinner, and one before breakfast. A morning onsen can make an amazing difference to your body temperature when stepping out into the snow later in the day.
For a genuinely Japanese experience, you should definitely check out the Goshiki Onsen. One night’s stay includes two home-cooked meals and the use of several picturesque indoor and outdoor onsens. There is nothing quite like sleeping on the floor and then tiptoeing out into the frigid winter air in your birthday suit to enhance the feeling of being in a foreign country.