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BANG BANG

by Vanessa Gibson

Mention Hokkaido to most Japanese from 'down south' and the first thing they think about is not snow. It's food. For them, a trip to Hokkaido is not complete without indulging in Hokkaido's famous foods: salmon sashimi and roe, ramen noodles, hairy crab, and wagyu beef. You can knock a few of these off your list in one visit to Bang Bang. Masanobu Sato's iconic restaurant has been a feature on the Niseko dining landscape for 22 years. Masa's passion in life is skiing (telemarking to be precise), as you could probably ascertain given his decision to set up shop in the world's powder capital and the fabulous photos dotted about the restaurant. Such is its popularity in winter that seasoned Nisekophiles know to book well in advance of their arrival.

As you walk in you can see yakitori being carefully turned on the counter grill by a sharply attired chef, a feature pot belly stove warming the room, and natural wooden tables with windows looking out on the snow and trees. Don't think you're in a completely isolated bubble in Hirafu, aside from the English on the menu, this is a slice of real Japan.

Bang Bang is a notch above the typical Japanese izakaya (casual dining pub/restaurant) and has some dishes that would not be out of place in a fine dining restaurant. The marbled Wagyu beef steak will set you back about ¥10,000, but you'll want to close your eyes to help you savour every bite. The tenderness and juiciness of this beef is astounding. Despite stories of Wagyu beef being fed beer and given regular massages, a fallacy started by a misinformed journalist several years ago, Wagyu do lead a life of comfort and are often kept in small herds of as few as four.

Although the beef is extraordinary, make sure you don't miss out on the fantastic range of fresh fish. You can choose between five grades of salmon sashimi. Top of the pops is the rare keiji salmon found only in the northern Hokkaido waters. Only one in 10,000 salmon caught are true keiji salmon. The fisherman can never be 100% sure a fish is actually a genuine keiji until the fish is cut open, which you can't do unless you buy it from them. They sell for about ¥50-60,000 each, and Masa estimates that about 1 in 10-15 he buys is not actually keiji, and he loses money on them. Caveat emptor indeed! The keiji salmon is to seafood lovers what Penfolds Grange is to Australian wine lovers. Keiji salmon is almost a rite of passage for a seafood lover to try one at least once in their career.

Signature Bang Bang fare also includes fresh Hokkaido oysters, char-grilled king crab and pork spare rib. The crab is pricey but delectable and the ribs are tasty but may be a bit fatty for western tastes. The meal can be balanced with a few Japanese salads, yakitori vegetable or rice dishes. Most dishes range from ¥700-1500. A word of warning – split bills often vary from ¥3,000 to ¥12,000 per head depending on how you order. They have increased their range of wines to include a great Australian selection, predominantly from the Margaret River. Luckily for you and me, Masa loves food almost as much as he loves his telemark.

Bang Bang is open evenings from 5:30-11pm. Closed on Wednesdays.

Bookings are essential, seats 30-50 people. Tel. 0136 22 4292