LIKE many countries, Japan takes a great deal of pride in its national beers – or ‘biru’, in the local dialect. Whilst its wines have not reached the heights of other countries like Australia and New Zealand, Japan’s premium beers are often ranked up with the best in the world in their categories. It may be something about the formulaic process of brewing that suits the country that invented and perfected the production line, that sees all its major brewers rolling out near-perfect lagers.
Beer plays an integral part in Japanese culture, and there is a prevailing relaxed attitude towards its distribution and consumption. You can crack open a tinny on a train should the desire strike you – indeed many feel a trip on a Shinkansen (bullet train) is incomplete without one. International visitors would have noted with surprise the availability of beers from vending machines. A Japanese business dinner will often see men drinking from small glasses poured from a 750ml bottle of beer, furiously recharging each other’s glass as soon as it drops to half-full.
Japanese rarely drink beer on its own, and it is typical to be served some sort of food with a brew. To this end, most establishments serving alcohol place an equal importance on their food. Despite this integration of beer into society, Japan recently fell to seventh place from sixth in a beer drinking survey conducted by Japanese brewery, Kirin. Economic woes, shrinking population of younger people and increasingly diverse consumer tastes were thought to be the cause, according to Kirin. Among the most impressive of the world’s beer drinkers are the Czech Republic, Ireland, England, Australia, Germany and Belgium (which has the world’s largest number of different brands of beer, at around 400).
Beer is the world’s oldest and most widely consumed alcoholic beverage, and the third most popular drink overall, after water and tea. It possibly dates back to as early as the 6000s BC, and is recorded in the written history of ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia. According to a recent survey, more than 133 billion litres are sold in the world per year, producing total global revenues of $294.5 billion. Given these statistics, beer could well be considered man’s best and longest ever friend.
Niseko itself has a close relationship with beer, having a good quality brew of its own, Niseko Beer, crafted by some passionate locals. Not too far from Niseko is Otaru, a charming coastal town that drips with Germany’s Bavarian influences, and a rich history of beer brewing. Otaru Beer is considered one the finest in Japan. It is the brainchild of Johannes Braun, Otaru’s lone German resident, who has a fanatical devotion to his craft and a brewing pedigree going back hundreds of years. Known as one of the finest beers in Japan, and well decorated, it is only available within 100km of Otaru, so if you can track one down in Niseko or Sapporo you should take your chance when you get it. However, the best place to sample one of Otaru’s famous Dunkels, Pilsners, Weiss, or a hearty Schwarz is the Warehouse Microbrewery, in the heart of Otaru’s canal district. We could rattle on forever about beer, but…
As most of us at Powderlife are quite partial to a beer ourselves, we thought we’d roll our sleeves up and dig deep into Japan’s beer landscape, review some of the country’s best, and attempt to discover a bit about the best beer places to quench one’s thirst in Niseko and Hokkaido. We did so to service you, the reader, and in no way, shape or form enjoyed a single moment of it…Kanpai!
National Beers
Sapporo
Draft
(5% Alcohol)
The Draft is Sapporo’s flagship beer. Balanced and full-bodied, it offers a mellow hop aroma and a dry first taste. This is backed by an even maltiness to round out what is a delightful brew. As the label proudly states, it’s the beer that’s, “great for good times at home, or out the town.”
Rating: 3.5
Classic
(5% Alcohol)
The Classic is a little milder than the Draft, while retaining its balance. Before even cracking a beer you know you’re on a winner when reading from the can that this is an, “eminently drinkable flavour extravagance”.
Rating: 3
Edelpils
(5% Alcohol)
POWDERLIFE RECOMMENDATION
A Powderlife favourite, this genuine pilsener has a strong, hoppy bite with a slight maltiness that’s typical of European lagers. We found this beer occupies a lot less shelf space in the stores, but trust us, it’s definitely worth tracking down
Rating: 4.5
Yebisu
Malt Traditional (Red)
(5.5% Alcohol)
This malty beer from one of Japan’s luxury beer labels has a deeper hue, typical of many amber ales. It carries an extra half-percent alcohol, which is more prominent in tasting than one would generally find desirable.
Rating: 3.5
Premium (Gold)
(5% Alcohol)
The bright golden can of the Yebisu Premium is certain to catch the eye and will no doubt draw you to sample its tasty contents. A safe balance of hop and malt, this is a refreshing brew with minimal dryness.
Rating: 4
The Hop (Green)
(5.5% Alcohol)
As you’d expect from its name, this beer offers a fragrant hop aroma that carries throughout each mouthful. The benefit of this enjoyable hop variety is that the extra alcohol becomes undetectable and a pleasant beer is the result.
Rating: 4
Dark Ale (Black)
(5% Alcohol)
POWDERLIFE RECOMMENDATION
This sleek black can contains a smooth, dark roasted ale. Not too heavy on the palate, it boasts sweet caramel and a hint of coffee. Being back at 5 per cent alcohol, Yebisu have ensured the flavour of this beer remains unhindered. Definitely the dark horse, this beer goes down as the winner in Powderlife’s book.
Rating: 5
Asahi
Super Dry
(5% Alcohol)
Japan’s most famous export beer, Asahi Super Dry is the beer this land is famous for…overseas. Moderately dry, it hints of an early hop that runs right through the tasting. Asahi’s a refreshing, thirst-quenching beer all-round, and not too dry, as suggested by its namesake.
Rating: 3
Kirin
Ichi-Ban
(5.5% Alcohol)
This one’s internationally-styled, based on German Bavarian lagers. Hold it up to the light to find the Ichi-Ban quite clear, and take a mouthful to experience a full body and a good hop-malt balance. An extra half-per cent in alcohol slides through untasted.
Rating: 3.5
Suntory
Malt’s Beer
(5% Alcohol)
Clear and refreshing, this brew is not too dry, with some sweetness present. Definitely considered a ‘session beer’, this one may be one to take on up the mountain to enjoy after/during a long day in the pow.
Rating: 3.5
Hokkaido Beers
Niseko beers
Lager
(5% Alcohol)
Although hoppy, fragrant and sweet, this local Niseko brew goes down easily but doesn’t have much of a backbone due to a lack of malt. With a slightly syrupy mouthfeel, it sports a pale, amber hue.
Rating: 2.5
Canadian Ale
(5% Alcohol)
The local crack at an amber ale, this one is much richer in flavour and very nice on the palate. A subtle sweetness, perhaps honey, is detected by those with keen tastebuds.
Rating: 4
Dark Ale
(5% Alcohol)
With a lighter mouthfeel, compared to some other dark ales, Niseko’s black beer is sweeter than the Yebisu dark, and goes down quite smoothly indeed.
Rating: 4
Otaru Beer
Pilsner
(4.9% Alcohol)
With a golden colour and the fresh aroma of hops, this lightly flavoured beer is as refreshing as any good pilsner. Otaru Beer has mirrored similar brewing traditions as once used in Pilsen in the Czech Republic, home of the first pilsner at the Urquell brewery.
Rating 4.5
Dunkel
(5.2% Alcohol)
Smooth and creamy, this roasted brown beer boasts a rich, creamy taste of malt and caramel. True to old-school tradition, which Otaru brewers take pride in, German brewing methods were closely followed here, and also noted by the palate is a slightly higher alcohol content.
Rating 4.5
Weiss
(5.4% Alcohol)
Popularly known as Otaru’s ‘Banana Beer’, the full-flavoured Weiss (Bavarian slang for wheat) is brewed in true German Bavarian style, and uses 50 per cent wheat malt, combined with special yeast, to produce the exquisite banana aroma and a cloudy appearance in the glass. A sweet and bitey brew.
Rating 4.5
Asahikawa Taisetsu
Kera Piruka ‘Penguin Beer’
(5% Alcohol)
Although quite cloudy and stormy, a nice amber colour prevails. A hint of honey means this one is quite sweet, balanced by a decent hopping. A longer fermentation results in a slightly dry mouthfeel.
Rating 4
Furano Omugi (Happoshu) ‘Seal Beer’
(4.8% Alcohol)
This one’s okay for those who don’t like much kick to their beers by way of flavour. Only lightly hopped, and with slightly less of an alcohol content, it’s more in the style of a cold-filtered crystal malt lager.
Rating 2.5
Daisetsu Pilsner ‘Polar Bear Beer’
(5% Alcohol)
Clear in colour as the ice this polar bear would lay about on, it starts with a smooth and fruity first taste, into a dry, hoppy bite to finish. Best served colder.
Rating 3
Abashiri
Hamanasu Draft
(5% Alcohol)
Quite fruity upon first tasting, an under-hopping and few bubbles mean easy drinking and not much as far as body goes. With Hawaiian-style flower artwork and showing off a peachy pink colour, this could be one for the women.
Rating 1.5
Blue Beer
(5% Alcohol)
Apparently the Hokkaido brewer Abashiri likes to get its pastels out when it comes to beer – this one’s blue, and perhaps best suited to Smurfs. Without much body, it must be said that thanks to its colour, this beer does have some novelty value.
Rating 2.5
Pirkawakka
Ale
(5.5% Alcohol)
Hop and wheat ingredients are both balanced particularly well in a beer that manages to be rich in taste at the beginning, then thirst-quenching and refreshing afterwards. No wonder this brewery’s source of water is found in Japan’s list of purest water sites in the country.
Rating 4
Pilsner
(5% Alcohol)
A bottle-fermented pilsner, high-quality hops are used here for a balanced combination of bitterness and refreshing characteristics – Hokkaido’s formidable try at a Czech pilsner. A moreish flavour and pleasant, full-bodied mouthfeel keeps you coming back for more.
Rating 4.5
Stout
(5% Alcohol)
Dark in colour, as stouts tend to be, this top-fermented beer is fresh and refreshing, with a slight bitterness that lingers after your mouthful. ‘Pirkawakka’ means ‘beautiful water’ in the indigenous Japanese dialect, which shows in the purity of this brew.
Rating 4.5
Weiss
(5.5% Alcohol)
Hokkaido Beer’s crack at a German-style Bavarian Weiss beer, a yellow-white in colour, this brew uses plenty of wheat and yeast, to reach a final result that is fruity, mild and sophisticated.
Rating 4
Local watering holes
Powderlife popped in to a couple of Niseko pubs that specialise in the world’s best beers…
BELGIAN brewmaster Paul De Coninck boasts a mouth-watering menu of 40 different kinds of beer in his quaint yet charming little hole in the wall, Paul’s Café & Bar.
Tucked away in Hirafu’s Middle Village on Momiji-Zafa Street, the bar with an adjoining restaurant is the only place in Niseko where genuine Belgian beers – even Trappist monk brews – are poured with love, passion and their trademark head every day of the week. In fact, Paul, born in Antwerp (one of the world’s beer capitals), is the only Belgian beer bar owner in Japan, owning a second watering hole in Hokkaido’s capital, Sapporo.
“I always tell my customers that sake is to the Japanese what beer is to Belgians – there are just so many different flavours and styles,” Paul says. In fact, of the seven Belgian trappist brews available in the world, Paul says he stocks six. Not bad going. Some of the Belgian beers on offer are the fruity Hoegaarden, an 8 per cent Chimay bitter, Leffe’s darkly sweet drop, the devilish Duvel, fruity novelty beers from Chapeau, and even a hard-to-get Asahi pilsener draft called Kita Mo Shokunin, only made and sold in Hokkaido.
Paul’s Café is open daily from 5pm-11pm. He even holds a ¥400 Stella Artois happy hour from 5pm-7pm every day, which is just in time for some après ski refreshment, we reckon.
PADDY McGinty’s manager Alan Power assures us he would never pour any customer a beer of a quality he wouldn’t drink himself. That’s probably an easy promise to keep, seeing as though he imports his Irish bar’s creamy, genuine Guinness stout direct from James’ Gate brewery in Dublin, the home of the legendary beer and its famous brewery. Alan says the only difference between the Guinness at Paddy’s and that served in Dublin bars is, oddly, in the physical weight of the beverage itself. It tastes spot-on, he reckons.
“Because the Guinness needs to be sent greater distances to get to Japan, the brewing process is different, and to improve shelf life they need to process it slightly more for longevity’s sake,” he explains. “This means the beer is a little lighter because it loses density in this process.” We believe Alan may just know his stuff.
Alan, also known as ‘Paddy’, left Dublin when he was 18 years old, and for the past 14 years has called Japan his home. Alan has seen the advent of the Irish bar really take off in Japan. “The first Irish bar opened in Japan about 75 years ago, and since then have become a staple and pop up everywhere – just like in many other countries in the world,” he says.
But Guinness isn’t the sole attraction at Paddy’s, located on Hirafu-Zaka Street, the main road up to the Hirafu lifts. The bar opened its doors in October this year, and the popular, buzzing pub, with assorted Irish paraphernalia on the walls, is the only place in Niseko where fans of creamy heads can get a pint of Kilkenny fresh from the tap.